The word ‘Carnival’ evokes visions of a vibrant
and glitzy musical and dance extravaganza. The most famous carnival
celebrations are the Brazilian and Spanish ones replete with Samba dancers and the
groovy Latino music characteristic of this occasion. Well, we are fortunate to
have our own Carnival right here in Goa which is arguably as famous as its
better known cousins from around the world. The difference being that the
‘Samba Babes’ are replaced with respectably dressed Goan ladies hot stepping it
with the spirited local lads to some scintillating and funky music.
The origins of this pagan
celebration seem to go back to the hedonistic feasts of ancient Rome and
Greece. It travelled with the Spanish and Portuguese and is celebrated in all
the erstwhile Portuguese colonies. Goa is the only place in India which follows
this tradition due to the Portuguese influence here during the colonial rule.
Carnival is celebrated just before the period
of lent during which the followers are supposed to abstain from any form of hedonistic activity. So prior to lent, the carnival bash starts with the appointment and arrival of King Momo to the capital
city of Panjim on Fat Saturday, the eve of Carnival. It’s King Momo who starts
the festivities by reading his decree permitting his subjects to have unlimited
fun and frolic. King Momo symbolically rules Goa for the four days of carnival.
In the height of the Hippie culture of Goa in
the 60’s, 70’s and the early 80’s, the exhibitionist Hippies would sprawl
around the beaches and then get up and join the Carnival parade in their barely
there costumes. Some would even dress up as the much sought after Samba
dancers. Goa has certainly toned it down in recent years to a more wholesome,
family kind of entertainment and celebration.
In fact, the Department of tourism has made
great efforts this year to advertise and popularise this festival with many
novel ideas. There is a Samba Square in the heart of Panjim which has attracted
the local families and youth with the foot tapping Samba music and a variety of
food stalls.
The Food and Cultural
festival, inaugurated on the 28th of Feb to kick start the Carnival
celebrations highlights the cuisine and rich cultural legacy of Goa. There is
an all Goa cooking competition with sponsored prizes that are being judged by a
celebrity chef. The cooking competition promotes local cuisine and showcases
the same to visiting tourists. The winning recipe will be displayed on Goa
Tourism’s website and other social media.
Agnee, an Indian rock
band, and other artists like Kailash Kher, Rabbi Shergill, Raghu Dixit Project
and Sona Mahapatra are performing at the festival. A grand fashion show and a
fire display is also included. This year’s edition also features street
performances by musicians at various vantage points across Panjim city, a King
Momo contest, and an increase in prize money from Rs 3.7 lakh to Rs 5 lakh for
the best float.
The Carnival is being celebrated from 01 to 04
Mar 2014 this year and Joel D’Souza, a 37-year-old engineer, is the King Momo.
We cross the River Mandovi by the jam-packed
Ferry after parking on the other side since parking is super difficult in
Panjim today. As we set foot on the
Panjim side, we are swamped by innumerable hawkers selling the brightly
coloured masks and head gear that seems to be the rig-of-choice for most
tourists and many locals. The funny thing is that I have never seen so many
street vendors ever in Goa. They seem to be coming out of the woodwork!! And
they are not Goan. Biharis, Gujjus, Rajasthanis, UP ke bhaiiyas and a good mix
of south Indians! Talk of national Integration.... it happens here without
trying!
The promenade along the River Mandovi is the
place to be since the floats are scheduled to go along this route. There are
people everywhere. Many have come hours in advance to get the best and most
coveted – shaded - places. Tourists and locals alike are in a state of
excitement and waiting for the parade to start is the most difficult part.
The guttural snarl of the Harley Davidsons
heralds the beginning of the Gala. The superbikes roar out to thunderous
applause as the spectators jostle each other to catch a glimpse of these
deafening beasts.
The Indian Navy Band
marches past next – all elegance and charm mingled with the spit and polish so
inherent in the Defence Forces - to resounding applause. The children of
Sunshine Worldwide School precede the King Momo’s Float with a very strong
message – Say No to Competition – and all its ills. All the while, the crowd is
frantically trying to take in all that is happening around because it is not
just these tableaux but a lot of other little things which are piquing the
interest of the onlookers... a daredevil cyclist, a young boy on a battery
operated ‘scooter’, a ‘Mother Teresa’, a ‘Lion’ and many such accents which
keep pouring out to entertain.
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King Momo and his entourage arrive on a Unicorn powered Tableau complete with his very own live band in attendance and an effervescent group of revelers ready to tango to his every command.
Float follows float
with the popular themes being the fisher folk with giant mock-ups of fish and
the rural theme with the farmer and his oxen. Another one is of Portuguese
influence with the troupes dancing to western beats and the bright colours,
frills, bandanas and pompoms reminiscent of European festivities.
This year, the social
message floats also catch the eye with a man sitting on a pot (destruction of
environment), our girls our pride and the Save the Ocean’ float. Some even make
political statements... J
The crowds are still
pouring in..... As the multitude swells and the bamboo barricades lining the
roadside scream with the crush of humanity bearing down on it, we step away and
decide to wrap up our day here. Making our way back to the jetty, we board the
next ferry and are back to the saner bank of this River Mandovi.
Our way back is punctuated with stops to frame
the beautiful Carnival decorations along the many circles and roads leading to
Panjim. Not as famous as the Rio Carnival perhaps, but delightful and exuberant
it is!!
VIVA GOA! VIVA CARNIVAL!!
