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| Looks like the BRO has already been spreading the message... |
Driving
along with the Tsarap Chu on our left, we reach the Gata Loops... starting at
about 4200 mtrs altitude. This is a series of 21 hair pin bends before we hit
the Nakila at 4739 mtrs. All along, the peaks seem to have a sprinkling of
fresh snow on them... just as if they were some giant muffins with a drizzle of
icing sugar on top! Very beautiful!
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| Gata Loops |
There
is a fair amount of traffic on this route... even though it is so demanding a
journey. The day is getting brighter and the scenery more compelling. All of a
sudden I spot a dog sized something on the corner ahead. Its gait immediately
gives its identity away. It is a Himalayan Snowcock. Lo and behold! There are
two more right behind it and our Scorpio comes to a screeching halt. The moment
we stop (with squealing tyres) and rush to get to our cameras, they scramble up
the mountainside giving us precious little time to get in a few clicks. It is
then that I realise that there is a fourth one too! Am I happy!! A brilliant
start to the day indeed!
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| Himalayan Snowcock |
Lachulungla at over 5000 mtrs is cold
and windy and we move ahead to Pang. It is very different from what I have
imagined it to be. I have expected a couple of dhabas but this is like walking
on Main Street.... at about 4700 mtrs! There are at least 7-8 dhabas each, on
either side of the road catering to the hungry, sleepy, out-of-fuel or just a
tired traveller. Imagine, a collection of 15 odd dhabas looks like ‘Main
Street’ after driving in these remote areas!!! Gives an idea of how sparse and
patchy the habitation is in these regions.
A
quintessential breakfast of maggi and tea later, we are off. The road loops up
high over Pang giving a panoramic view of the settlement there from above as
well as the valley of the Lachung River with those typically distinct
geological formations in the valley, the result of high velocity winds in the
area.
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| Lachulungla.. with a sprinkling of fresh snow |
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| The dorm-beds at the dhabas at Pang |
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| The dhabas at Pang also offering tented dorm-type accommodation. |
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| Pang, from the road above |
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| A close-up of Pang |
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| Goelogical formations reminiscent of medeival castles! |
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| Lachung river valley |
Moving ahead we come to the famed Morey Plains. A vast area of flat land surrounded by mountains... with Kiang (Wild Asses) grazing lazily in small probably family groups and loads of little birds foraging around the roadsides as well as the small clumps of grasses around. These plains are high altitude semi-desert plains at just under 4800 mtrs and part of the Tibetan plateau kind of habitat. The flora and fauna here also exemplifies this fact. Tibetan Larks, Horned Larks, Twite, Great Rosefinch, Tibetan Snowfinch...
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| Driving through the Morey plains |
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| Great Rosefinch |
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| Tibetan Lark |
.JPG) |
| Twite |
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| Horned Lark chicks |
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| Kiang |
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| Tibetan Lark |
The fabulous road through the Morey
plains ends at a place just short of Debring. A minor road branches off to the
right taking us towards Tso Kar. Though a rough and narrow road, it is easy
going on it. A half hours worth of drive brings us within sight of the lake.
Tso Kar is a salt water lake and salt
deposits are visible along the lake margins. This is one of the numerous lakes
dotting the south east part of Ladakh. It is a breeding ground for the Common
Redshank, Brahmany Shelduck, the Bar-headed Geese and the most sought after
avifauna here – the Black necked Crane. The latter is a critically endangered
species of which there are estimated to be just 200 to 300 left in the
world.
We are lucky to spot a Black necked
Crane right upon entering the lake area and even before the little settlement
of Thukje. There are marshes around the lake which are the favoured habitat of
these handsome birds. For me, this entire trip has been worth it just to see
these beautiful creatures...
The
sandy soil at the edge of the lake is very soft and the vehicles are sinking
appreciably driving on it. There are sand banks a little way inside the lake
where we spot some Common Redshanks and Lesser Sand Plovers in breeding
plumage. To the right, are a flock of Brahmany Shelducks. All around in the
small scrubby patches of grasses around are Tibetan Larks, Tibetan Snowfinches,
Twites and a lone Desert Wheatear. Near the settlement there is a stony
retaining wall on which we spot the Little Owl. Very cute!
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| Tso Kar |
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| White winged Redstart Juvenile |
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| Little Owl |
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| Common Redshank in breeding plumage |
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| Black necked Crane |
There is very little visible in the
way of accommodation here. There are a couple of tented camps near Pongunagu
right at the point one first sees the lake. Since it is a day trip for us, we
do not check out any stay options. After spending a half hour there, we head
back towards Debring and the main highway.
The
roads are very good most of the way today except for the detour to the lake
though one can’t really call it bad. The area around Debring is dotted with the
tents of the nomads (the Changpas) spaced well apart though loosely congregated
within say shouting distance of each other with the sheared wool from their
livestock (sheep) lying outside all along in this region. Either they are doing well for themselves or
it is the monetary help extended from the government that enables the presence
of an SUV outside each tent we see!
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| A lone tent of one of the Changpas |
The
road slowly ascends in wide loops. Right at the very distant top, we cross the
famous Thanglangla, the second highest pass in the world at over 5300 mtrs. The
views from here are superlative...
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| Thanglangla |
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| View from almost the top of Tanglangla |
As
we drive towards Upshi and Leh, we pass Rumtse with tiny fields all bright
yellow and vibrant green alongside the pristine blue of the river. There are
chortens on the wayside and the landscape changes colour at regular intervals. Right
about here there is a startling change as the mountains aroud take on a
vinaceous hue!
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| Vibrant yellow fields along the way at Rumtse |
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| Changing colours of the landscape |
At
Karu we turn towards the Hemis Gompa for the benefit of our fellow passengers.
We have done this trip (to Leh) before and seen the monastery. We spend the
time birdwatching around the Gompa. A treat it is!
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| Tibetan Snowfinch feeding its young |
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| Mountain Chiffchaff |
.JPG) |
| Chukar |
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| Black billed Magpie |
It
is getting dark and we move out towards Leh. I look forward to seeing the
Stakna Gompa even from a distance since I totally love the setting it is at.
Much photographed, it looks mysterious, enticing, austere yet vibrant all at
the same time!
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| The much photographed Stakna Gompa |
This is definitely one of the most
scenic routes I have ever driven on... all the way from Shimla, through
Kinnaur, Spiti, Lahaul and now Ladakh! I feel blessed to witness such beauty
firsthand!
We drive through the outskirts of Leh
and go towards Nimmu on the other side. Enroute we stop at the Gurudwara
Patthar Sahib and the Magnetic Hill, regroup with one of our other vehicles and
then proceed to our campsite. It is after dark by the time we reach our camp.
The gush of the Indus is heard in our tents since we are right at the river’s
edge. A campfire set up at the riverside is beckoning. A sumptuous dinner later
we hit the sack!
The journey continuous...
