The Soul of Incredible India - The Sun Temple at Konark

The Soul of Incredible India series - 

The Sun Temple at Konark

Kichakeswari Temple

Dhanobeni Temple

The Leaning Temple of Huma

The Sun Temple at Konark

In this new series, I'm going to pick and write posts on the culturally vibrant state of Odisha.

The Sun Temple at Konark is arguably the most famous tourist site in Odisha. It is the exquisite culmination of the Kalinga style of temple architecture. Dating back to the 13th century AD, this intricately embellished Temple Chariot of the Sun God was built by King Narsimhadeva of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. 

There is a story from the 'Samba Purana' surrounding this place. It is said that Saam or Samba, the son of Lord Krishna was cursed with leprosy. He performed severe penance for 12 years invoking the Sun God at a Sun temple he built in Mitravana on the banks of the Chandrabhaga river here and was cured. Even today in Odisha, this day is celebrated as the Samba Dashami on the 10th day of the Shukla Paksha (waxing moon fortnight) of Pausa masa (10th month of the Hindu calendar roughly in January). On this day, mothers pray to the Sun God for the health of their children!

The very name Konark is an amalgamation of two words - 'Kona' meaning corner and 'Arka' is another name of the Sun God. The Sun god worshiped in Arka Kshetra is also called Konark. In 'Brahma Purana' the Sun God in Ark-kshetra has been described as Konaditya. So it is evident that the place where the Kona Aditya (or Kona-arka, the Sun god) was worshiped was also popularly called Konark.

It is not well documented and a matter of controversy what caused the destruction of this pinnacle of Kalinga art, natural erosion (causes) or a desecration by invading armies. 

The Konark temple has the main sanctum called the Vimana housing the main deity which is said to have had a Shikhar well over 200 feet high which has since fallen in. The Jagamohan or the assembly hall which is the bulk of the ruins visible today. The third is the Nrityamandapa or the dancing hall.  This temple did not have a separate Bhogmandapa like the Jagannath temple at Puri or the Lingaraj temple at Bhubaneswar. Dancing and offering were probably both done in the same space. 

This temple has been built according to vastushastra. As one enters the Temple grounds, to the left and in the south-east is the temple kitchen now in ruins. On the right in the north-east direction, is the puja mandap and the well for water.

Directly in front is the Nrityamandapa with stairs leading up to it's high platform. The stairs are flanked by the fierce lion atop an elephant which has a man under it. This is supposed to symbolise that one must leave behind the arrogance of both intelligence and strength before entering the God's abode...

The roof has fallen in but the ornately carved platform and the pillars above are a treat to the eyes. Most of the sculptures here are of musicians and dancers.

Musicians and dancing girls

The Konark temple has been built in the likeness of a gigantic chariot of the Sun God pulled by 7 horses symbolising the 7 colours in sunlight as also the 7 days of the week. The chariot sits on 12 exquisitely carved pairs of wheels for the twelve months of the year. Each pair of wheels represents the 'Shukla paksha' (waxing moon fortnight of a month) and 'Krishna paksha' (the waning moon fortnight of the month). The wheels are also sundials which can be read to an accuracy of 3 minutes!

Each of the spokes of the wheels have some representation of the daily rituals or calendar events. One of the axles of the wheels has the Narasimha god carved on it.

The lowest layer of carvings on the platform is that of elephants in different poses.

The middle row of sculptures are of everyday scenes and fabulous imaginary beings like the Gajasardula or the lion on elephant..

Lion trampling elephant

... or the Naravyala (Lion on a man)... or the elephant trampling a man... 

Elephant trampling a man

The Nagamithunas or the half man half snake beings which are said to live in the ocean depths hoarding great wealth...

Even the King is depicted in some panels on seated on elephants meeting important emissaries from afar carrying exotic gifts of jewels and animals (like the giraffe, in this panel)

Envoys carrying fabulous gifts for the King like the Giraffe here

There are everyday scenes like that of a lady doing Shringar (make-up)...

Lady doing Shringar with her helpers carrying pouches and vanity bags

Punishments for petty wrongs would be the chopping off of the hair as shown in this panel. The expression on the face of the culprit is visibly sad!

Chopping off of hair as punishment

One of the Sage Vishwamitra and Menaka..

Another of a mother-in-law sharing her experience of life with the daughter-in-law...

A panel showing the devoted Shravan Kumar..

Another a playful scene of monkeys stealing butter from the cowherd's lady!

The rows of sculpture above this are mostly erotica... and teachings of medicine in some places.

The superstructure made of regular sandstone has entryways which are made out of chlorite and ornately carved. The foundation and inner core of the temple is made out of laterite. In the Vimana, there are three idols of the Sun God in Chlorite facing south, west and north depicting the rising, mid-day and setting sun. These have been re-installed after they were found fallen off the Vihara and so are not in order...

Even though this megalith is nowhere near it's best with very large parts of it fallen, it still projects glorious aesthetics and brilliant craftsmanship. The aura of it's past grandeur still lingers in it's intended scale, the beautiful proportions of it's different spaces and definitely in it's peerless carvings.

A tribute to the prodigious talent of the artisans of Kalinga, the Konark temple is a masterpiece indeed!

Heritage Heirlooms - In and around Udaipur, MP

To read Part 1 Heritage Heirlooms - Udayeshwar Neelkantheshwar temple

The more famous Udayeshwar Neelkantheshwar temple is surrounded by much smaller, yet intriguing temples ...

The Mata Mahamaya Mandir (temple) is situated just behind the main Udayeshwar temple. It has a beautiful entrance arch, a perennial stepped kund and a small mandir.

In India, every place of worship, big or small seems to have fascinating folklore attached to them. This place is no less... It is said that this is called the Mahamaya (Maha is great and Maya means A supernatural power of the Gods) Mandir since the Devi here shows a remarkable change in form. During the Navdurgas of Chaitra (about April) and Ashvin (about October or November) months of the Hindu calendar, the deity (Idol) has the appearance of a girl child in the morning, a youthful young woman in the afternoon and an old woman by evening! I believe one can see this happen first hand, if one visits during the Navdurgas.... Great motivation to plan a visit here then I think!.

There are nine avatars of the Goddess in the Mandir behind the main idol.

This is representative of the whole family of the Goddess... Lord Shiva in the centre with Nandi, his Vahan (vehicle)... the Devi herself in the form of Parvati with the two sons Ganapati and Kartikeya.

In the village just a few hundred metres from the Mata Mahamaya Mandir is the Pisanhari Mandir. It is said that an old childless woman who used to earn a living by milling flour (and therefore the name 'Pisanhari') had commissioned this temple from the money she saved. A small but charming temple ...

What I found interesting here is the way the doors were made of rough hewed stone with a built-in hinge so they could be opened/closed... and work well to this day... See the hinge below!

There is a small mosque too near the Pisanhari temple... Moti Masjid.

Has a nice six-fish-with-one-eye motif in the ceiling.

About 4 Kms from Udaipur is the hamlet of Muradpur. The old Hanuman temple here attracts a lot of pilgrims and is in a quiet setting amidst fields veiled from the temple by a screen of evergreen trees... The bells here particularly attracted me...

Behind the acclaimed Hanuman Mandir is one of the very few Varaha temples still standing. Though it is not worshiped at anymore after facing desecration in centuries past, people still come here to see this beautiful piece of art.. It's said that anyone who can slide under the Varaha would be washed of all their sins ... that's folklore and anybody's guess how true it could be. But a fun thing to try :-)

These are a few of the outlying places of interest around Udaipur. There are still more which we didn't find the time to visit.... only reaffirming the rich cultural identity of our ancient culture...!

Heritage Heirlooms - Udayeshwar Neelkantheshwar temple

Udaipur is best known as the city of lakes in the Mewar region of Rajasthan. But there is another almost unknown Udaipur which is a village about 15 Kms from Ganj Basoda in Madhya Pradesh. This obscure place boasts of a very beautiful temple and many smaller ones in and around.

On hearing about this place in glowing terms, we decided to pay a visit.

The Legend

The story goes that Raja Udayadit of the Parmar dynasty (made famous by Raja Bhoj who established the city of Bhojpal = Bhopal) built this temple in the 11th century AD. It is said that this temple was built only on a single day of every (roughly) month .. that is, in the Pushya Nakshtra. So the carvings and other materials were gotten ready for the 26 other days and then the actual building of the temple took place only for the time the Pushya Nakshtra was ruling in the 24-hour period on the 27th day. 

This Shiva temple is east facing and the Sun's first ray of light falls on the deity twice a year around the equinoxes. The exquisite carvings are well preserved and are now under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India.

The regular offerings to Lord Shiva being sold outside the mandir.

The deity inside the temple... the God Udayeshwar Neelkantheshwar

Intricately carved exteriors...

The different dancing postures in the relief below are beautifully rendered.

One of the very interesting carvings and possibly a unique one in this temple is that of the God Ganapati in the female form seen on the right side of the picture below. On the left are his two wives Riddhi and Siddhi.

Another beautiful sculpture...

The Nataraj form of the Lord Shiva below..  with a Nagkanya in attendance with Kamadev.

The carving up front with the head desecrated is that of the Chamunda Mata complete with the scorpion on the belly and the gruesome garland of heads...

The carvings are superlative and deserve a lot of time to really appreciate them!

On the right is the Godess Saraswati ....

The Sun God.

Daksha... with a sheep's head in his hand.

Dharamaraj with the dog.

The one below is the Ardhanaareshwar.... Embodying the male and female forms in one body... signifying that each one of us has a bit of the masculine and the feminine within us!

There are many carvings of gods and goddesses and also of dancers and common village folk. One poignant one is of a mother with her child on her back... Another of a lady with an umbrella, the fluid lines of the carving very appealing!

 One more beautiful depiction is that of a lady removing a thorn from her foot. 

The 'Shikhara' is made up of miniature shrines of this temple all the way up culminating in the horizontal fluted disc called the Amalaka ending with the 'Kalash'.

A totally fascinating story here is the one explaining a human figure in stone hanging near the top of the shikhara... The story goes that after the temple was completed, the last thing left to do was to place the 'Kalash' on the top. A craftsman goes up and places the 'Kalash' but tarries too long admiring his handiwork. The sun rises and he is turned to stone, left to hang there for eternity!

There are even plans found etched in stone in the courtyard which are said to be the rudimentary drawings that were made prior to building this temple. Kind of like the blueprints of today! The one below is that of a pillar...

Tughlaq Mosque

In the 14th century, a small mosque was built alongside the temple... some locals say that the dharamshala of the temple was converted into the mosque.... but there are some inscriptions in urdu telling the tale of mughal occupation and subsequent defacement of parts of the temple...

This place is a gem, not to be missed! There are many smaller temples in and around the village .... each one with it's own alluring charm and a place in history. I'll try to cover them at least pictorially in the next installment.

To read the next installment at Part 2 Heritage Heirlooms - In and around Udaipur